When producing a hoodie, one of the first decisions is: French terry or fleece? Both are sweatshirt fabrics built on the same base knit. The difference is the inside, and it decides warmth, feel, durability and season.
In short: French terry has open loops on the inside. It is lighter, more breathable and pills less. Fleece is brushed on the inside. It is warmer and softer but more prone to shedding and pilling. For year-round collections French terry is the safe choice; for winter drops, fleece.
French terry vs fleece side by side
| French Terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside | Open loops | Brushed, fluffy |
| Warmth | Medium, good for transitional weather | High, ideal for autumn and winter |
| Breathability | High | Lower |
| Durability | Very shape-stable | Good, surface wears faster |
| Pilling | Low | Higher risk, especially with high polyester content |
| Typical weight | 240–320 g/m² | 280–380 g/m² |
| Decoration | Excellent for screen printing and embroidery | Embroidery preferred, screen printing on the outside possible |
What is French terry?
French terry is a loop-back knit: smooth on the outside, with small open loops on the inside. It is lighter and airier than fleece, regulates body heat better and keeps its shape wash after wash. It is the 'clean' hoodie fabric: casual but not too warm.
- Weight: 240–320 g/m²
- Ideal for: spring, autumn, transitional season, layering
- Look: clean, minimalist, timeless
- Care: easy, shape-stable
- Print suitability: excellent for screen printing & embroidery
What is fleece?
Hoodie fleece (also brushed fleece or sweatshirt fleece) starts as the same loop knit, but the inside is brushed. Brushing raises countless fine fibre ends that trap air, making the fabric softer, fuller and noticeably warmer. Don't confuse it with polar fleece, which is usually 100% polyester and brushed on both sides.
- Weight: 280–380 g/m²
- Ideal for: autumn, winter, outdoor
- Look: voluminous, sporty, warm
- Care: can shed with lower-quality versions
- Print suitability: embroidery preferred; screen printing on outer side possible
Durability and pilling: which fabric lasts longer?
Pilling happens when loose fibre ends twist into small balls through friction. Because fleece is brushed on the inside, it has more loose fibre ends than French terry and is therefore more prone to pilling and shedding. Quality matters most, though: long-staple combed cotton and a low polyester share reduce pilling in both fabrics.
- Wash inside out at 30 °C
- Wash with similar textiles, not with denim or zips
- Avoid the tumble dryer or use a low setting
- When buying, check cotton quality and fabric weight
Brushed fleece vs French terry: which suits your brand?
For streetwear labels with year-round basics, French terry is the safe choice: shape-stable, easy to print and wearable in any season. Fleece pays off for winter drops, merch for outdoor events and anything that should above all feel cosy. Many brands carry both: French terry as the base, fleece as the seasonal upgrade.
„French terry is the everyday hoodie. Fleece is the statement piece for the cold months.“
— palstudios product development
Loopback: the third option
Loopback (also 'brushed terry') is a premium variant: the inner loops are lightly brushed and feel almost as soft as fleece, but the fabric stays more structured. Many premium brands use loopback as a year-round compromise.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between French terry and fleece?
Both are sweatshirt fabrics made from the same loop knit. French terry keeps the loops open on the inside; fleece has a brushed inside. That makes fleece warmer and softer, and French terry lighter, more breathable and more shape-stable.
Is French terry warm?
French terry is moderately warm. It works well for spring, autumn and layering, but it is noticeably less warm than fleece.
Does French terry or fleece pill more?
Fleece usually pills more because its brushed inside has more loose fibre ends. Good cotton quality and a low polyester share reduce pilling in both fabrics.
What is a French terry hoodie?
A hoodie made from French terry: smooth on the outside, open loops on the inside. It is lighter than a fleece hoodie and works well for year-round basics.
